Machine for stitching sweatbands in hats



R. BECKER.

MACHINE FOR STITCHING SWEATBANDS IN HATS.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 1 1. 1919.

1,430,530. Patented Oct. 3, 1922. srgvsmn 1.

B. BECKER.

MACHINE FOR STITCHING SWEATBANDS IN HATS.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. I h I918:

2 H R w H ,m m m w w/ t c S N In 0 m mm M m .w s V m B a P v 0 J/ 5 E 9 S 0 G E 3 M w A t W R. BECKER.

MACHINE FOR smcnme SWEATBANDS IN HATS.

' APPLICATION-FILED SEPT.1,I918- LQfiQfiSQL v Patented Oct. 3, 1922.,

3 SHEETSSHEET 3.

WiTNESSES: INVENTOR A ORNEY a l time? E'UDGLPH BECKER, 01* EOSELLE EARK, NEW JERSEY, ASSIGNGB TO THE SINGER I IIAhTUFACTUR-ING GOTEPANY, A CORPOB-ATIOIBI 033 NEW) JERSEY;

EIl-LGHINE FOR- STITCHING SVIEATBANDS IN HATS.

Application filed September 11., 1918.

To (4Z5 107L017? it may concern Be it known that I, RUDOLPH Bnoniin, citizen of the United States, residing at Roselle Park, in the county of Union and State New Jersey, have invented cert" new and useful Improvements in lfifi achines for Stitchi Sweatbands in Hats, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to a machine for sewing sweat bands in hats and it is especially designed to stitch a leather sweatband to a straw or other still hatwhich has been previously provided with a ridge of needle penetrable material at the junction oi the brim and crown.

In my copending applications Serial Nos. 217,051 and 217,052, filed February 14;, 1918, which have since become patents numbered 1,280,9 l6 and 1,281,123, granted (lctob'er S, 1918, are disclosed new and improved methods of stitching sweatbands in strawhats in which methods strip oi? needle penetrable material is seemed in a variety of ways to a hat body with a soft edge or rid e of the strip located at the junction oi the brim and crown after which the leather sweat-mind is placed in wearing position within the hat and stitched to the soft edge oi? the strip preferably without the needle penetrat ng the stiii hat body which being brittle is likely to chip This application is continuation in part of the first or the above mentioned applications, Serial No. 217,051.

The present invention aims to provide a new and improved machine for stitching the leather sweat-band to the soft edge of the strip which has been previously anchored to the hat and thus to avoid the slow and eiipensive hand stitching operation heretofore necessary to secure sweat-bands in straw hats in the neat and smart fashion demanded by high class trade.

it aims to provide work supporting and feeding mechanism into and from which the work is readily introduced and removed, and by which the hat may be held in an inverted position with its brim in a plane in fixed relation, preferably at an inclination, to the path of the needle ot' the stitchiorzning mechanism. It seeks to provide an improved organization and arrangement of Serial No. 253,573.

the stitch-forming mechanism, work-sus-' taining mechanism, and. work-feeding mechanism in which the condition of the stitching may be examined during the progress of the operation on a hat. 7

Further the invention aims to provide a new and combined work-clamping and feeding mechanism.

Also it aims to provide a machine in which a leather sweat-band can be posi tioned within a hat in substantially the location it occupies in the finished hat and while being stitched. in place not only drummed in i. e., given a bell-shaped flare to form a cushion, but also drummed in with such facility that inequalities in the size of the blocked hat may be compensated for by stretching or distributing the fullness of the leather sweat-band about the internal periphery of the crown.

It aims further to insure the stitching oi the leather sweat-band to the strip of soft material which has been previously secured to the hat with the edge oi the leather substantially flush with the underside of the brim and without the exercise of much attention or careby the operator.

And its comprehensive ob ect, which embraces the previously mentioned objects, is

to pro ide a machine enabling the operator to better her output in numbers and quality, thereby meeting the increased cost and shortage of skilled labor in this line of production.

As embodied 'in working form, the invention comprises a single thread overseaming' mechanism having a. reciprocating needle which moved in a path inclined to the plane of the brim of a hat held in an inverted position by a work-rest which ma be. lowered from its raised (and normal working) position to facilitate the removal and introduction of work, the hat being gripped by its crown, which depends from the workrest. and. intermittently rotated a stitchlength at a time by a combined clasgingand feeding mechanism operated from the main-shah" in the head of the machine.

The invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings in which Fig.1 is a persperirtive view of a modification of the invention. Figs. 2 and 3 are details of the same. Fig. 4t is a perspective view ofthe preferred form of mechanism, the frame heing shown in dotted lines. Fig. 5 is per spective view of a plate which may be used in either form of the invention. Figs. 6 and 7 are a front elevation and bottom plan view respectively of a work-rest by which the hat is supported Fig. 8 is a cross-section through a. hat at the junction of the brim and crown showing the manner in which the leather sweat-band is stitched to. the edge of a strip of needle penetrable material.

In the form-of the invention shown on Sheet- 1 of the drawings, the trains of the machine is illustrated in dotted lines and comprises a base 1 trom which rises a vertical standard 2 canted at its upper end to form a head 3 closed by a lid l which is preferably movable on a hinge 5 for ready access to the mechanisu within the frame.

l ithin the head 3 is j ournaled the main shaft 6 from which the needle 7, needle-bar 8 and looper 9 are actuated by any suitably mechanism, that shown in the drawings bein substantially the same as disclosed in U. S. patents to Grieb, No. 1,206,433, granted November 28, 1916, and Prazalr, No. 939,5 l8, granted November 9, 1909 and the mechanism of said patents has been found satisfactory in the illustrated embodi ment of the invention. lhe needle-guard 10, Fig. 3, the sweat-guide 11 and cordguide 12 may also be the same as disclosed in the above mentioned patents.

The hat H, which has been previously provided with a ridge or fold of: needle penetrable material at the junction of the brim and crown in any of the various ways d lineated in the above mentioned copcnding applications, is supported by a work-re in an inverted position with the underside of its brim in a plane inclined to the mth of the needle. The work-rest may be made in a variety of ways, as shown in l consisting or a pair of arms or levers 13 secured at one end to a rod 14-, which is suitably journaled in a fixed part ol the frame ot the machine, and at their opposite ends carrying brim supporting members 15 and 16. The brim supporting member 153 is in the form of a E -shaped plate secured by the screws 17 to the ends of the arms or levers l3 and having a depending concaved -flange 18 which is adapted to engage the hat erternally at the junction of its brim and crown. The brim supporting members 16 are preferably in the form of lingers or bell-cranks hinged on the pins 19 to the before mentioned arms or levers 13 their upper surfaces 20 being co-planar with the top of the plate 15 and their opposed sides 21 being adapted to yieldingly grip the crown of the hat under the action of the coiled springs 22 connecting each finger with a relatively fixed part of the machine such as the plate 15. A link 28 connecting; the tail ends of ones the bellcranhs or lingers i6 compels the lingers to move an equal distance and in op posite directions whenever either of them is displaced, thus tending to center the hat at all times relative to the path the needle which it will be noted is substantially in a vertical plane bisectincg the brim sup porting plate The workest, shown in the drawings in its raised and normal working position, is held therein by the latch 24- which are of angular form and are pii oted at 25 intermediate their ends to stops 26 limiting the upward i'i'ioveinent oi the arms or levers '13, the stops 2t? l) dig secured in any suitable manner to the frame of the machine. spring 27 connected to each 0''" the ad}. "slit ends of the latches Q-Zl; normally urges their tree ends to a position bencrthe arms 13% and thereby holds the workrest in an elevated position. To lower the worlerest for the convenient introdur i and removal ol worn a chain 28 is loos I connected through the slots 28 to each the adjacentends of the latches 24: and l pulling down upon the same tln uu li a footo v suitable device (not show "Ly be removed from the 1 t on beneath the arms 1 The work-re st in lowered position adapted to rest upon a pair of steps justbl -i secured as by the screw and slot connection shown at 30 to ii. or at the frame.

Cooperating with the depending flange 18 of the brim supporting member 15 is a cupwheel 31 rotatably supported on a stud 32 fixed in the free end of a braclret-arm 33 integral with or secured in any other suitable nianner to the lid 4- closing the head 3 the frame. its upper surface as indicated in the drawlugs to receive the needle-guard l0 sweatguide 11 and cord-guide 12 which supported by the stud 32 in a position lined of course relative to the needle. Between the cylindrical face 3s 01 the cup-whcel and the concave face of the flange. 18 depending from the brim supper lng member, the crown of the hat is confined and the hat is prevented from being displaced bodily in the plane of its brim.

it will be readily apparent that if the hat is rotated while its crown is between the cupwheel 31 and the depending flange 18 of the work-rest it will be confined and maintained indefinite angular relation with respect to the needle-path. Together the members 18 and 31 compel the crown of the hat to main tain a tangential. relation with an imaginary plane at an angle, and preferably at an incllnation, to the path of the needle.

The mechanism for turning the hat while its brim is supported by the work-nest at an inclination to the path of the needle comprises a pair of gripping plates having treadle or other the latches supporting me a limited articulation at 35 with levers 36 which are pivoted at 37 to bracket-arms 38 which carry springs 39 engaging extensions 10 of the levers 36 to yieldingly urge the gripping plates as against the opposite sides of a hat-crown. The bracket-arms 38 are adj ustably secured by screw and slot connections 11 to a block 12, shown in detail in Fig. 2, which is hollowed out inside, its internal flat side walls 4C3 bein disposed in planes intersecting each other at right angles. The hollow block 912 is connected to an upright driving shaft 414 by a universal. joint consisting of a knuckle 4.5 pivoted at 16 to the vertical shaft 141.

The shaft 1 1 is suitably fixed to a feed- (llSli 1? which is intermittently rotated by mechanism like that of the above mentioned patent to Prazak, No. 9239,5 18. The feeddisk 17 has an upwardly extending annular flange 1-8 on which rests an actuating plate or lever 419 cut away at 50 to loosely embrace the driving shaft 1a. At one side of and beneath the plate 19 a pair of blocks 51 are pivotally secured by stud-pins 52. These blocks are arranged on opposite sides of the annular flange 18 which they are adapted to grip when swung in a clockwise direction, as viewed in Fig. 1, but which they do not grip when swung in a counter-clock wise direction. A tension-spring 53 is fixed to the plate 4-9 as indicated at 5 1 and at its opposite end to a part of the frame. This spring tends to pull the plate back and keep the blocks snug against the rim or flange 48. dog 55 pivoted at 56 to a fixed arm 57 prevents rotation of the feed-disk in a counter-clockwise direction as viewed in 1 but permits rotation thereof in the opposite direction being held against the flange 18 by a spring 58 slightly to one side of the line of centers of pivot 56 and the driving shaft 1 1. The plate 19, which may be termed a floating wrench is operated from an eccentric 59 on the main-shaft 6 through aseries of connections including a pitman 60, a bell crank 61, a link 62 adjustably connected to a slotted bellcrank 63, which in turn is linked to a rod 64iuniversally jointed at its opposite ends to the before mentioned bellcrank 63 and plate 19. Preferably, but not necessarily, a bufferspring 65 is interposed between the top of the knuckle 415 and the hollow block 12.

The foregoing description relates to the modification of the invention which is shown in Sheet- 1 of the drawings. New follows a description of the preferred form of the construction which is shown in Sheets 2 and 53 of the drawings.

In the preferred form the frame in general outline resembles the previously described modification its base 101 having in addition lateral supporting pins 102 at its opposite sides which are adapted to rest upon The head, 105 of the machine is closed b a lid or cover 106 which is rigidly secured against displacement by the screws 107. The needle and looper of the stitch-forming mechanism may be constructed and operated in anyof the variety of well-known w ys preferably as disclosed in connection with'the modification shown in Sheet 1 of the drawing Tn construction and operation the work rest is very much like that previously described. Tt comprises an arm or lever 108 which is fulcrumed at one end by means of a rod 109 in the stationary frame of the machine. Preferably the boss 110 on the end of the arm 108 is fixedly secured to the rod 109 which is loosely mounted at its opposite ends in the frame, provision against endwise displacement being afforded by the collars 111 suitably secured to the rod 109. The arm or lever 108,which extends forwardly toward the front of the machine, is bifurcated,

its forks 112 being wing-shaped and provided at their opposite tips with, apertured bosses 113 receiving pintles 114: to which pintles are secured by the pins 115 the sleeve portions 116 of brim supporting members .17 having brim engaging portions 118 and crown engaging portions 119. Loosely hinged on the pintles 114 between the sleeve portions 116 and the upper bearingbosses 113 are additional brim supporting members in the form of conical rollers 120 secured by the shouldered stud-screws 121 to hinged arms 122, spacing blocks 123 being interposed between the rollers 120 and the hinged arms 122.

The hinged arms 122 are apertured as in dicated at 12 1 to receive the ends of springs 125 coiled about the screws 126 threaded in the forks 112 with their opposite free ends reacting against the abutments 121'. The springs 125 yieldingly urge the rollers 120 in a plane parallel with'that occupied by the brim of the hat and toward the path of the needle, such movement being limited by stop-screws 128 threaded into the rearward extensions 129 of the hinged arms 122 and adapted to strike against the forks 1.12.

The fingers 11'1- are also yicldingly urged in a plane parallel with that occupied by the brim of the hat when it is being operated upon, the crown of which hat its portions 119 engage. For this purpose-an anchoring pin 130depending from and movable withthe arm or lever 108 holds one end of a spring 181 whose opposite end is secured to a slide-block 132 confined to a rectilinear fastening movement by the plates 133, screwed as indicated at 134 fast to the arm or lever 108, in the straight groove 135 provided'therein. Depending from the slide-block 132 is a pin 136 which is connected by linlis 137 to each of the arms 138 which have split bosses 189 fastened by the screws 140 to the lower ends of the pintles 114. The fingers 117 can approach each other far enough to yieldingly engage the crown of the smallest hat operated upon but their movement toward each other is limited by the arrival of links 137 into alinement with the cranlnarms 138. It will be noticed that the upper surfaces of the rollers 120 and of the fingers 117 are in substantially the same plane and support the brim of the hat in a plane at an angle and preferably at an inclination to the path of the needle. 7

As in the previously described modification the work-rest may be lowered from the raised normal working position shown in Fig. 4, in which it is supported by the screw 141 threaded in the latch 142 fulcrumed at 143 to the frame of the machine and held in supporting position. beneath the arm or lever 108 by means of a spring 144 whose force may be overcome to disengage the latch by means of a treadle connection or knee shift (not shown) connected to a rod 145. When the latch is disengaged the work-rest may be lowered to a position determined by the depth of a slot 146 out in the frame of the machine.

When a hat is positioned on the work-rest in the manner illustrated in dotted lines in Fig. 4 the spring-pressed rollers 120 hold its crown against a cup-wheel 147 which is preierably fashioned like the previously described cup-wheel and which is rotatably supported in any suitable manner on the *raoket 148 which is non-yieldingly secured to the lid 106 covering the head 105 of the machine. l i ithin the cup-wheel is provided a needle-guard 149 which is fixed against rotation. Directly above the conical rollers 19.0 is a plate 150 against which the underside of the brim oi the hat is held by the rollers when the work-rest is moved from its lower position to its raised and working position. The plate 150 is secured by the screws 151 to a slotted bracket 152 which is adjustably secured by the screw 153 to a lug 154 jutting forwardly from the inclined head 105 of the machine frame. The plate 150 is recessed as shown at 155 the recess being almost closed at one side by the stitch-finger 156 and opposed finger 157 each of which is secured by screws to the plate, the stitchfinger 156 being undercut as indicated at 156' to guide the edge of the leather sweatband as it passes to the stitch-forming mechanism.

in this preferred construction, as in the previously described modification, while the hat is supported by the brim on ti e wort:- rest and the junction of its brim and crown held in substantially intersecting relation with the needle-path by the cooperating rollers 120 and cup-wheel 147 and while also 70 the hat is held at opposite sides of a vertical plane through the path of the needle by the portions 119 of the fingers 117, it is clasped by its crown. and intermittently rotated a stitch-length at a time. The combined clasping and feeding mechanism comprises a pair of gripping plates 158 having limited articulation at 159 with bellcrank-levers 160 which are fulcrumed at 161 to a supporting crosshead 162 fixed to a threaded rod 163 whose to lower end is connected by a gimbal jo at l with a rod 165 having a square end 166 ably mounted in a sleeve 167 which in has its lower end connected by a joint 168 with a driving shaft 169 to the driving shaft 44 of the previously c scribed modification. The driving sha 169 is intermittently rotated in any suitab manner as by the mechanism described I viously for rotating the driving shaft dailthere being employed in addition a lever 17'!) and a linlc 171 having ball and sock-e connections with the plate or :[ioatig wrench and the'iink 64.

l n the preferred form of the construction 95 shown in Fig. 4 the gripping plates 158 may be provided with the clips 1752 upon which the crown of a hat is adapted to rest to locate the brim of the hat in a plane at right angles to the axis of the rod 163. For positively gripping the crown of the hat between the plates 158 a disk 173 is threaded .upon the rod 163 and by turning this plate the free ends 174 of the bellcranlzs 160 may be depressed and the gripping plates 1556 moved equally in opposite directions .se the sides of an interuosed hat crown with as much pressure as is deemed necessary to insure a firm grip on the hat. The bellcranks 160 may also be provided with "13iangular shaped cars 175 whose sloping sides are adapted to contact with the sector blocks 176 fixedly secured in any suitable man to the frame 100 of the mac angular plates 175 and St constitute a means for pre enting the ping plates coming together and hold them separated after the work-rest is low ered and the hat removed at the end 01' a stitching operation, the sliding connection bet veen the square end of the rod 165 and the sleeve 167 permitting the parts to drop until the plates 175 contact with the sector biOClKS 176. Also the plates 1.75 in conned tion with the blocks 176 hold the gripping plates 158 upright at this time as it is obvious, because of the universal joint 164. without some kind or support they would have a tendency to fall over to one side.

Supposing the machine to have been in op ration and a sweat-band to have been stltclr l within the hat by the needle 7 and looper 9 in any of the various fashions disclosed in the above mentioned copending applications, the operation of the machine is as follows :---Tlie operator puts her hand beneath the work-rest and then disengagos the latches 24s or 1 12 which supports it in raised position after which she leavers the rest into contact with the stops 30 or 146. In this operation the lingers 16 or 117 disengage themselves from the crown or the hat which is held between the gripping plates at or 158. Then the gripping plates r 158 are spread apart to facilitate removal of the finished hat and a new hat is introduced therebetween. After this the work-rest is raised and the brim of the hat settled upon in supporting members i 20 or 120lfi8. In the n anual elevation of the worlrest the operator holds the latches 24 retracted until the raised working position reached a: ter which she releases the trcadle connection 28 or 14-5 to permit the ring 27 or 144- to move the latches 52 i or l i-:2 into supporting position beneath the arms 13 or 108 of the work-rest. In this position of the parts and upon starting up operation of the machine the needle 7 will penetrate the edge or ridge of the strip of soft material. which has been previously secured to the hat-body and the needle '1' will also penetrate the leather sweat-band which has been loosely positioned in the crown be leather sweatband while being stitched is in the position it occupies in the finished hat.

T he operator preferably stitches across the meeting edges of. the leather sweat-band and subsequently is able to drum the sweat-band in with case and "facility owing to the conyenicnt position occupied by the leather sweat and also owing to the accessibility for man pulation thereof. it will be noticed that the operatofs view point unobstructed and ol the work being done throughout the progress upon hat. will be no- 1 st of the dle is re "up-wheel 31 or and that Qlrlh supported in a ic oi the machine. the non ol the nee .lle-

re to the plane in v ch the brim hat is supported. the thrust Oil the V the crown of the hat 'herl and the brim oi the f the brim supporti .51 memo rs l 120. Owing to this organization or arran ment it is not absolutely neceso member such the plate the material of the hat body to the needle it is advantatore th machine is started to operating. The

, from the needle and insure against bodily displacement of the brim oi the hat upward- 1y from the plane defined by the top sur-v faces of the brim supporting members 15- 20 or 1201l8. It will also be noticed that the slotted bell crank 63 permits regulation of the feeding mechanism to vary the length of stitch and that the adjustment is accessibly located at one side of the machine.

I will also be seen that the brim supporting members 1516 or 120-1l7 of the work-rest support the hat the opposite sides of whose crown they yieldingly engage during the stitch-by-stitch movement, while the cup-wheel 31 or let? confines that portion of the hat crown which is immediately adjacent the brim against the flange or side of the brim member 15 or 120. During the stitch by-stitch movement of the hat its crown is therefore held in substantiallytangential relation to an imaginary plane at right angles to the plane defined by th brim supporting surfaces of the work-rest and at an. inclination to the path of the needle.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim herein is 1. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism including a needle, cooperating members between which a hat crown adjacent the junction of the crown and brimis adapted to be disposed for maintenance relativeto the path of the needle, and a com bined holding and feeding mechanism acting independently of said members for turning the work a stitch length at a time.

2. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, in combination, stitchdforming mechanism including a needle cooperating members between which a hat crown adjacent the junction of the crown andbrim is adapted to be disposed for maintenance relative to the path of the needle, a workclamp independent of said members adapted to grip the hat externally, and supporting and actuating mechanism for moving the work-clamp around intermittently a stitch length at a time. Y

3. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, in combination, stitch-torming mechanism including a needle, cooperating members between which a hat crown adjacent the junction ol the. crown and brim 18" adapted to be disposed for maintenance relative to the path of the needle, a work-clamp adapted to grip the hat externally, supporting and actuating mechanism for moving the work-clamp around intermittently a stitch length at a time, including; connections permitting combined rotary and translatory movement of the work-clamp and of a hat gripped thereby with its brim maintained in a predetermined plane.

l. In machine for sewing sweat-bands in ha s in @e e section n mechanism including neei members between which a h cent the junction oithe crown and adapted to be disposed for maintenance relative to the path of the needle, a worlvclamp adapted to grip the hat externally, and supporting and actuating mechanism for mom ing the worlnclamp around intermittently a stitch length at a time including connections permitting combined rotary and translatory movement of the work-clamp in substan tially the plane or" the hat-brim and also mitting bodily movement of the worleho in a direction at ,ht angles to the pl of the mentioned movements.

5. in a *nachine for sewing sweat-bands .iats, in combination, a needle, means lt'or supporting; and actuating the eedle in a path inclined to the plane of the brim of the hat, a work rest, a member cooperating therewith to confine the junction of the brim and crown or" the hat relative to the path of the needle when the hat is moved, and combined clamping and itceding mechanism for advancing the work stitch length at a time, said work rest and member being relatively separable to permit the introduction and removal of a hat.

6. In a machine for sewing; sweat-bands in hats, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocatory needlebar and a needle carried thereby, work rest arranged below the needle-bar and shaped to engage one side of a hat in an inverted position, a member cooperating with the work rest and confining the hat in its movement relative to the path of the needle, and a combined clamping and feeding mechanism for advancing the worl; stitch length at a time, said work rest and member being relatively separable to permit the introduction and removal of a hat.

7. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, in combination, stitch-forming); mechanism including a needle, a work-rest adapt ed to be supported in a plane inclined to the path of the needle, a member cooperating with the Work-rest and adapted to ngage a hat-crown adjacent its junction w n the brim, said rest and member maintaining the junction of the crown and brim oi the hat adjacent the path of the needle dun" ing movement oi the hat, a work-clamp ha ving plates for gripping the hat externally, arms to which the plates are articulated, a member supporting i, arms, means ably supporting said member, and me hanism for intermittently rotating: 9, 1st named means to turn a hat .ppe l between.

the plates a stitch length at a time.

8. In a machine for sewing s vent-bands in hats, in combination, stitch-forming anism including a needle, work-rest ed to be supported in a plane inclined to the path of the needle, a member cooperating with the worlcrest and adapted to engage hatcroivn acent its junction brim, said rest and memb junction of the crown and biadjacent the path of the needle during mentof the hat, a work-clam havr opposed concave plates, supoort for each of said plate means r I' saidplates in opposite directions, inec intermittently turning; s id plates, universal oint between ran. .iand hats, in combination, si" to. meclr anlsm including; a needle, est adapt to ed to be supported in a plane inclined to the having opposed concave piai arm for each of sald plates, in 111g said plates in opposit (.i che 1 anism for intermittently turni" a universal joint between i. and said means for moving); the plates, a sliding connection between the plates the mechanism. A

10. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands hats, combination, stitcl 'l orininm mech anism including a recipr eatery needle cooperating looper, a work-rest susi 'aed a plane inclined to the path of: the needle, amember cooperating with the work-rest to confine the junction of he brim and crown. of the hat in its movement adjacent the nee-- die-path, said work-rest and member being relatively separable to facilitate in roduc tion and removal of hat, a vrorlsclamo having movable gripping plates for claspa es,

ing a hat-crown e 'tern lly, .nd mechanism for intermittently In 111;: the won 7) between stitches including a shaft ii below and in front oi? the .vorlr-rest ant an articulated connection betwee shaft and duct-ion and removal of a having movable grip in 1 a hat-crown externally,

intermittently turn-i g eluding a shaft arrange of the worlerest, an exix lac sally jointed at one end to said shaft and articulated at its other end to said gripping plates.

12; In a machine for sewing sweatbands in hats, in combination, stitchdorming mechanism including a needle and cooperating looper, a work-rest supported in a plane inclined to the path of the needle, a member cooperating with the rest to confine the junction of the brim and crown of a hat in its movements adjacent the path of the needle,

said work-rest being movable downwardly below said member to facilitate introduc tion and removal of work, a work-clamp, and means for intermittently turning the work-clamp including connections permitting the work-rest and member to maintain the junction of the brim and crown of a hat adjacent the path of the needle during a succession of stitch-forming cycles.

13. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, feeding mechanism, and means confining a hat to turnwith its brim in a predetermined plane and with the junction of its brim and crown adjacent the path of the stitch-forming mechanism, said means including a work-rest, an arm supporting the -w0rk-rest, a fulcrum for said arm in rear 01 the stitch-forming mechanism, and means for sustaining the arm raised and the workrest in operative position, said last-named means including a detachable connection.

l-l. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, feeding mechanism, and means confining a hat to turn with its brim in a predete 'mined plane and with the junction of its brim and crown contiguous to the path of the stitch-forming mechanism, said means including a work-rest, a lever supporting the work-rest, a fulcrum for said lever in rear ot the stitch-forming mechanism, and means for sustaining the lever raised and the workrest in operative position. said last-named means including a spring-latch and manual means for releasing the same.

15. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, in combination, stitclntormin mechanism, feeding mechanism, and means confining a hat to turn with its brim in a predetermined plane and with the junction oi? its brim and crown adjacent the path of the stitch-iorn'iing mechanism, said means including a work-rest, a lever supporting the work-rest, a fulcrum for said lever in rear of" the stitch-forming mechanism, means for sustaining the lever raised and the workrest in operative position, said last-named means including a latch and manual means for releasingthe same, and a pair of fingers sustained in a plane with the work-rest affording supplemental support to the hat.

16. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in. hats, in combination, stitclrrorming meclr anism, feeding mechanism, and means eonfining a hat to turn with its brim in a predetermined plane and with the junction of the brim and crown adjacent the path of the stitch-forming mechanism, said means including a work-rest hinged inrear of the stitch-forming mechanism, and a pair of fingers movable relative to the work-rest in a plane parallel therewith constituting a sup- I plemental rest for the work.

17. In a. machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, feeding mechanism, and means confining a hat to turn with its brim in a predetermined plane and with. the junction of its brim and crown adjacent the path of the stitch-forming mechanism, said means including a work-rest, an arm supporting the work-rest, a fulcrum for said arm in rear 01" the stitch-forming mechanism, means for sustaining the arm raised and the work-rest in operative position, said last-named means including a latch and means for operating the same, and a stop limiting the extent o'l movement of the arm.

18. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, feeding mechanism, and means confining a hat to turn with its brim in a predetermined plane and with the junction of the brim and crown adjacent the path of the stitch-forming mechanism, said means including a work-rest hinged in'rear of the stitch-forming mechanism, and a pair olt' fingers simultaneously movable in opposite directions in a plane parallel to the workrest.

19 In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, means for supporting and confining hat to move with its brim in a predetermined plane at an inclination to the needle and including a workrest and cooperating wheel, a plurality of clamping plates, and means 'for turning the clamping plates about an axis transverse the plane of the work-rest and inclined to the path of the needle.

20. In a machine for sewingsweat-bands in hats. in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, means for support ing and confining a hat to move with its brim in a predetermined plane at an ill-- clination to the needle and including a workrcst and cooperating wheel, a plurality of clamping plates, and means for turning the clamping plates about an axis transverse the plane of the work-rest and inclined to the path of the needle and intermediate the plates, said last-named means including an.

eccentric upon the main-shaft, a linkage actuated thereby comprising a pitman bellcrank and link, and mecl'ianism between the link and clamping plates for converting the throw of the ecc nt ic into an i erl 'l parallel. anti 21 mittent one-war rotation of the clamping ila es.

a machine for sewine sweathands ing mechy movable lied in a plane inncedle and adaptto grip a and means for turnspri -cram between stitches :lf'rom.

the worlerest.

' in sweat-bands in hats, I n-rorining mechanism i iprocating needle, mechan' the hat intermittontlv a 1 1 ms, N l L lest inciuciim a pair or .LOl. v1.3 airao ec, to engage a hater-own externally, a wheel adapted to e a hater: wn internally opposite the rollers, said rollers being rotatable about s which are respectively inclined to the path of the needle, and means for relatively shifting the rollers and wheel to facilitate the introduction a removal of the work.

ln a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including a iecngrocating needle, mechanism for turning the hat intermittently a stitch-length at a time, a work-rest brim and crown-engaging elements, engaging member, a crowircnga member, means yieldii lv urging tomi); N l, getlier said elements and said crown-engage in member, and mea pQlPll 'l sepaaion of said work-rest and i? r the introduction and removal oit work, said brim-engaging member llLVlilfZ' C "I J- E 101 guiding L-llG edge 01 a assage to the stitching overhanging; li sweat-band in noint. a .ln a machine for sewing s .voat-bands hats, in l .t'on, stitch-forming m cnanism includin eciprocat needle, m chanis 1 for tur th hat intcrmi'l tentlv a stitch-lon time a work-rest V hereto for the path g pair oil sustaining a hat a r in."

k) 1 at having a pair ol: rollers hingei nest in a plane inclined 1. LO 0 l'iavi r a move 1e needle and a "ors hinged the eto for vireo its brim in a plane inclined t the path of the needle, a member lined laiivc to the rollers above which it is located, a wheel dyed re ative to rollers to one side of said work-rest be 'iq piv-- which it is located, 7 otcc. to a fixed part ct in machine in rear of the stitching point for lowering the rcllii lingers in order to facilitate introdncti n and removal of the work.

25. In a for sewing sweat-bands stitch-forming irocating needle,

a work-rest for supporting a hat by its brim with that portion of the crown which is adjacent the brim in substantially tangential relation. to a plane which inclined to the path of the needle, said worlerest hat in the work-rest in the tangential rela- "1011 mentioned during its stitch-bystitch movement.

26. In a machine for sewing sweatbands in hats, in combination, stitch-forming iechanism including a reci arocating needle, a work rest for supporting a hat by its brim with that portion of the crown which is adjacent the brim in substantially tangential relation to an imaginary plane which is inclined to the path of the needle, said work-rest having means arranged behind and adjacent to the needle-path and having a pair of fingers extending in advance of the needle-path adapted to engage opposite sides of the crown of the hat, yielding means for urging said fingers toward each other, mechanism for turning the hat in the work-rest intermittently a stitch length at a time, and means for confining a hat in the work-rest in the tangential relation mentioned during its stitch movement.

a machine for sewing sweat-bands a work-rest for supporting a hat by its brim with that portion of the crown which is adjacent the brim in substantially tangenial relation to an imaginary plane which is inclined to the path of the needle, said work-rest having means arranged behind and adjacent the needle-path and having a pair of fingers extending in advance of the needle-path adapted to engage opposite sides of the crown of the hat, mechanism for turnin the hat in the work-rest intermittently a stitch-length at a time, and means for confining a hat in the work-rest in the tangential relation mentioned during its stitch-by-stitch movement.

28. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, in combination, stitch-forming mech anism including reciprocating needle, a. worlerest for supporting a hat by its brim with that portion of the crown which is adjacent the brim in substantially tangential relation to an imaginary plane which is inclined in the path of the needle, said work-rest having means arranged behind and adjacent the needle-path and having a pair of fingers extending in advance of the needle-path adapted to engage opposite sides of the crown of the hat, a sprin for said lingers toward each other,

means for compelling the fingers to shift equally in opposite'directions when either of them is displaced, mechanism for turn- 29. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism ncluding a reciprocating needle,

'a work-rest for supporting a hat by its brim wvith that portion I of the crown which is adjacent the brim in substantiallytangential relation to an imaginary plane which is inclined to the path of tlie ,needle, said work-rest having a pair of rollers arranged onopposite sides of the needle-path and having means extending in advance of the needlepath sustaining the hat at opposite sides of its crown, mechanism for turning the hat in the work-rest intermittently a stitch-length at a time, and means for confining a hat in the work-rest in the'tangential relation mentioned during its stitchby-stitch movement. r

i 30. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, a work-rest forsupporting a hat by its brim with that portion of the crown which is adjacent the brim in substantially tangential relation to an imaginary plane which is inclined to the path of the needle, saidwork-rest having a pair of rollers hinged thereto on opposite sides of the needle-path and having means'extending in advance of the needle-path sustaining the hat at opposite sides of its crown, mechanism for turning the hat in the work-rest intermittently a stitch-length at a time, and means for confining a hat in the workrest in the tangential relation mentioned during its stitch-by-stitch movement.

31. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in still, oval crowned hats, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, a work-rest including oppositely yieldingmembers for supporting a hat by its brim on opposite sides of the stitchforming mechanism and with that portion of the crown which is adjacent the brim in substantially tangential relation to an imaginaryplane at an acute angle to the path of the needle, mechanism acting in dependently of the work-rest .for turning the hat in the work-rest intermittently a stitch-length at a time, and means for confining a hat in the work-rest in the tangential relation mentioned during its stitchby-stitch movement.

32. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, a work-rest for supporting a hat by its brim with that portion of the crown which is'adjacent the brimf in substantially tangential relation" to an imaginary plane at an angleto the path of the needle, mechanism. for turning the hat in the work-rest intermittently a stitcha hat" in the 'vvorl;'-rest in the tangential 'reneon "mentioned during its stitch-bysti'tch movement, "said work-rest being shiftable away from said confining means without shifting-the confining-means.

38.111 a machine for sewvingsweat-bands 7O length at a"time,"-and means*for confining v for the-introduction and removal of work in hats, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism" including a needle, a. work-rest for supporting a hat by its brim with-that portion" of the crown which is adjacent the brim in substantially tangential relation 'to' an imaginary plane at an angle to the path of theneedle, said work-rest being hinged to a fixed'part of the machine in rear of and substantially at the level of the stitching point so as to permitdi'opping. of the work-rest for introduction and removal of, work, mechanism for turning the hat in and'relatively to the work-rest intermittently a ,stitchrlength at a time, and means for confining a hatinthe work-rest inthe tangential relation mentioned during its stitchby-stitch movement.-

34. Ina machinefor sewing sweat-bands in hats, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, a work-rest for supporting a hat by its bri'm'with that portion of the crown which is adjacent the brim in substantially "tangential relationto an imaginary plane 'at an" angle to the path of the needle, said work-rest "being hinged to affixed art of the machine in rear and at substantia ly' the elevation of the stitching point for permitting worlt to be introduced and removed, mechanism for turning the hat in the work-rest intermittently a stitchlength at a time, and means for confining a in hats, in combination, stitch forming' mechanism including a needle, a work-rest including depressible work-engaging elements for supporting a hat by its brim with that portion of the crown which is adjacent the brim in substantially tangential relation to an imaginary plane at an acute angle to the path of the needle mechanism for turning the hat in and relatively to the workrest intermittently a stitch-length at a time, and a wheel cooperating with the work-rest to maintain the hat in the tangential relation mentioned during its stitch-by-stitch feeding movement. i

36. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, a work-rest m in. CI

for supporting a hat by its brim with that portion of the crown which is adjacent'the brim in substantially tangential relation to an imaginary plane at an angle to the path of the needle, mechanism for turning the hat in the work-rest intermittently a stitchlength at a time, and means for confining a hat in the Work-rest in the tangential relation mentioned during its. stitch-by-stitch movement, and means behind the path of the needle and cooperating with the work rest to confine the brimof the hat against displacement when the needle is being withdrawn fromlthe work.

37. In. a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, in combination, a stitch-forming mechanism, cooperating members for maintaining the hat crown adjacent the junction of crown and brim in operative relation to the stitch-forming mechanism, means acting independently of said members adapted to grip the hat, and actuating mechanism for moving said means intermittently, a stitch length at a time.

38.111 a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, I in combination, a stitch-forming mechanism, a work-rest, means cooperating therewith to confine the junction of the brim and crown ofthe hat relative to the stitchforming mechanism when the hat is moved, and a combined holding and feeding mecha nism for advancing the work a stitchlength at a time, said work-rest and cooperating means being relatively separable to permit the introduction and removal or" a hat.

89. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, in combination, a stitch-forming mechaniszma work-rest, means cooperating therewith to confine the junction of the brim and crown of the hat relative to the stitchinsosso forming mechanism when the hat is being moved, and a combined holding and feeding mechanism for advancing the work to the stitch-forming mechanism.

40.. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, feeding mechanism, and means confining a hat to turn with its brim in a predetermined plane relative to the stitchforming mechanism, said means including a work-rest and a pair of fingers movable relative to the work-rest in a plane substantially parallel therewith and constituting a suppiemental rest for the work.

41. Ina machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, in combination, a stitch-forming mechanism, feeding mechanism, and means confining a hat to turn with its brim in a predetermined plane relative to the stitchtforming mechanism, said meansincluding a work-rest and a pair of fingers simultaneously movable in opposite directions in a plane substantially parallel to the work-rest.

42. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, in, combination, stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, a work-rest for supporting a hat by its brim with that portion of the crown which is adjacent the brim substantially tangent to a plane inclined to the path of the needle, said workrest being shiftable substantially vertically to permit the work to be introduced and removed, mechanism for turning the hat in and relatively to the work-rest, and means for confining the hat in the work-rest in the tangential relation during its movement.

In testimonywhereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

RUDOLPH BECKER. 

